There are many different types of battery you can use to power your equipment, ranging from small 6v hand held rechargeables for small busking amps to huge deep cycle RV and forklift batteries capable of powering full out door gigs and lighting systems. They all have different uses and characteristics which you should be aware of before you design your power system.
We’ll start with the smallest.
Smaller equipment such as busking amps, battery powered fx pedals, stereo’s and mixer units etc. can often be adequately powered using UK sized AA, C, or D sized batteries. If you’re out playing a lot you’ll be getting through shed loads of them so buying a decent set of rechargeable’s will save you a good deal of money in the long term. You generally have the choice of buying two types, Ni-Cd or Ni-MH.
Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) or Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) ?
Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) batteries generally deliver more power for longer periods of time and can be recharged more often than Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd) batteries. Ni-Mh batteries are more suited to high drain applications and do not suffer from the so called ‘memory effect’.
To achieve optimum performance and sustain battery life, Ni-Cd batteries should be fully discharged before any subsequent recharge. Failure to do so, can result in the battery creating a sort of fake ‘memory ‘ barrier at the point in the cycle from which it was recharged. During future use, the battery remembers that level and only discharges to that same point.
It is also claimed that overcharging Ni-Cd batteries causes them to become somewhat ‘lazy’, affecting their ability to hold and dissipate charge evenly. Lazy batteries are prone to discharging very quickly even immediately after a full recharge. This claim is disputed by fans of nickel cadmium cells as it is said a few deep cycle recharges can often return the batteries to good working condition.
Ni-Mh on the other hand do not suffer from memory problems or issues with laziness, and can be topped up and charged at any point in their usage cycle without affecting their capacity.
I personally go for the Ni-MH.
Types of Car, Marine and Heavy Duty Batteries
There are 3 main types of battery. Starting batteries, marine batteries and deep cycle batteries.
Starting Batteries
Designed for starting and running engines, powering car lights and radios etc. These type of batteries are required to produce very high starting currents for a very short space of time and not for supplying heavy and continued loads.
Starting batteries are not designed to be repeatedly charged and discharged during normal use and should never be discharged by more than 5% of their capacity. In their usual automotive applications, any drain placed on a starter battery is immediately replenished by the vehicles’ alternator when in motion, keeping it constantly topped up and in good condition.
Deep Cycle Batteries
Deep cycle batteries are designed to deliver a larger output for longer periods of time and to withstand countless charge/discharge cycles before their performance drops to unusable levels.
A deep discharge is generally regarded as discharging a battery by 40% or more.
Deep Cycle Battery
Deep cycle batteries are designed to be discharged by up to 80% of their initial capacity, but in reality, no battery should ever be discharged by more than 50% of it’s rating on a regular basis, even if it is a deep cycle.
Once you drain a deep cycle battery to below 20% of it’s capacity, it’s inner structure is compromised and life span is considerably shortened. See the notes on depth of discharge (DOD) below to see how a battery’s lifecycle greatly depends on the depth at which it is regularly discharged.
Marine Batteries
Marine batteries – Fall some where between the two above.
As you can imagine the demands of a boat battery would be somewhat greater than that of a car and a combination of both high starting and deep cycle qualities are needed. You may often see batteries sold as ‘Deep Cycle Marine’ batteries but there is no real way of telling their exact make up or how good they are in relation to a true deep cycle battery. The term deep cycle is often overused by companies selling marine batteries.
You can differentiate a true deep cycle battery normally used in forklift trucks, RV’s (recreational vehicles) and golf carts etc. from a marine battery as any battery rated in CCA’s (cold cranking amps) or MCA’s (marine cranking amps) may not be a true deep cycle battery.
Deep Cycle Batteries Used In RV’s
Depth of Discharge (DOD) Rating
When buying a battery, be sure to look at the figures given by the manufacturer for depth of discharge (DOD).
DOD rates are important as they define the way a battery’s power capacity has been tested by it’s manufacturers.
A battery that is discharged by only 10% each time it’s used, will have a life span of up to 5 times as long as a battery that’s been discharged to a depth of 50% each cycle.
Although deep cycle batteries are designed to withstand regular discharge cycles of up to 80%, the same battery discharged by only 50% will have nearly double the life span of one exposed to a DOD of 80%.
Be aware of this when studying the manufacturer’s lifecycle figures for your battery. The lifecycle expectancy quoted for the battery you buy may have been rated at a different discharge level than that which you intend to use it. This could result in you buying a battery that in reality has a much shorter life span than expected.
Amp Hour Rating Time and the Peukert Effect
You must also look at the amp hour rating time that the manufacturers give. This is the amount of amp hours the battery kicks out when it is discharged down to a certain voltage.
Due to the nature of battery physics, the rate at which a battery is discharged directly affects the amount of amp hours it can supply. If a battery is discharged quickly, say over a period of 8 hours, it’s capacity will be considerably less than that of the same battery discharged over a 20 hour period and even more so as one discharged over 100 hours.
This theory is known as the Peukert effect. To save going into a load of technical blurb and to keep things simple, I’ve given a few examples below.
If you were to completely discharge a battery over 20 hours, it’s amp hour capacity can be anywhere from 10 – 20 % lower than the same one discharged over a 100 hour period.
A battery discharged over 8 hours can have a capacity anywhere between 20 to 35 % lower than if it were discharged over 100 hours.
A battery discharged over 8 hours can have a capacity anywhere between 15 to 20 % lower than if it were discharged over 20 hours.
It is also considered that if you discharge a battery at full whack ie. at it’s maximum amp hour rating, it will only be capable of supplying half of it’s actual (Ah) capacity.
So a 20 amp hour battery discharging by the full 20 amps in one hour, would only actually supply a mere 10 amp hours of energy before being fully depleted.
Battery manufacturers will often quote the ‘hour rate’ of the battery over the 100 hour test period in order to beef up it’s supposed capacity rating. You may also be given the 20 hour test rate along with other shorter rates like 6 or 8 hours.
Make sure you are aware of these differences before you buy your battery so you know exactly what to expect from your purchase. A combination of misleading DOD information, amp hour rating times and the Peukert effect could result in your battery having much less potential than you bargained for.
Batteries also have a tendency to become less efficient as they age.
Should I Buy a Conventional Flooded ‘Wet’, Gel or AGM Battery ?
Flooded or wet batteries are generally the most commonly used and the cheapest. Filled with sulphuric acid and distilled water they come in two types, serviceable and maintenance free.
Serviceable wet batteries generally require a small level of maintenance and need to be ‘topped up’ periodically in order to replenish fluid losses from the venting of gasses from the electrolyte (battery acid) surrounding the cells. Care has to be taken when handling flooded batteries due to the corrosive nature of their contents and the fact that they are not sealed for maintenance purposes. They also require a cool down period of an hour or so after they have been recharged.
You can accurately check the state of charge of a serviceable wet battery by checking the specific ‘gravity’ of the electrolyte using a hydrometer.
Using a Hydrometer
Maintenance free wet batteries are totally sealed and are not user maintainable. Once the electrolyte solution drops below a certain level or becomes contaminated with eroded sediment from the battery’s lead plates, the battery has to be replaced.
Gel and AGM batteries are both types of valve regulated lead acid batteries (VRLA’s). These are sealed and pressurised but regulated through means of pressure safety valve incase of excess gas build up. Most of the oxygen and hydrogen created during the battery’s charging process is recombined into water preventing evaporation and water loss.
Gel Battery
The recombination process is extremely efficient meaning VRLA’s never need to be topped up and gaseous emissions are kept to an absolute minimum.
Instead of sulphuric acid and distilled water, gel batteries are filled with a gelled electrolyte consisting of sulphuric acid and fumed silica. This immobilises the contents and means the battery is safe to mount in almost any position. The gel also provides the battery with greater durability, shock resistance and makes them immune to leaks and cracks. They also have a much higher power to weight ratio that wet batteries.
AGM absorbed glass mat batteries are comprised of an electrolyte absorbed in a sponge like mat of glass fibres. Their construction makes them even better performers than gel batteries. AGM technology is the the newest and most effective form of battery construction and as expected is the most expensive.
Gel and AGM VRLA batteries also self discharge at a much lower rate when in storage and have a higher charging efficiency than flooded batteries. This means they need less power to charge, and they stay charged for much longer when not in use.
Chargers
If you want a battery to last as long as possible, you need to buy a quality multi stage or ‘intelligent’ charger capable of dealing with your battery’s requirements. Over charging a battery, or charging it too fast, to slow, or at the wrong current will seriously affect it’s future capacity to store and deliver charge. Cheap chargers are not a good investment.
You should choose a charger according to the job it is required for. Wet batteries and VRLA’s charge at different rates so ensure the charger you buy is capable of supplying your batteries needs.
Charger Rating
To buy the correct rated charger you should think about the time constraints at which you operate.
If you need a charger capable of recharging your batteries over short periods of time and on a daily basis, you will need one with a high current rating. If you are only using them every once in a while then you could get away with a cheaper, smaller rated charger which would do the job over longer time period.
e.g If a 100 Ah battery needs a power input of around 110 Ah to fully charge it, then a 10 Ah charger will take approximately 11 hours to do the job. A 25 Ah charger should only take around 4.5 hours.
You must also consider the physical conditions your charger will be working under. If your set up is subjected to wet or damp environments or exposed to the elements then a waterproof charger may be necessary.
Ensure your charger has at least 3 charging stages.
1. Bulk stage – For the bulk of the main charging capacity.
2. Absorption stage – Tapering current for the last 10-20% of charge.
3. Float stage – Maintains a very low charge in periods of storage to prevent battery discharge.
Battery Care and Storage
Even an expensive marine or deep cycle battery won’t last long if you don’t look after it properly. This includes charging it correctly and with the right equipment, keeping up the maintenance and correct storage at times when it is not in use.
Marine and deep cycle batteries should be charged with a lower current and over a longer period of time than a regular starter battery.
Always use a multi stage charger. This will extend the life of your batteries. Using an average car starter battery charger to charge your deep cycle batteries will shorten their life span. If you only have a 1 or 2 stage charger, ensure the battery is disconnected once it is fully charged. Overcharging a battery will also seriously affect its long term capacity.
A deep cycle battery should never be discharged to below 20% of its initial capacity and it’s voltage should not be allowed to drop below it’s rated voltage.
In storage, a battery will slowly discharge by itself and over a prolonged period of time if not maintained, will completely exhaust it’s charge. This can cause irreparable damage to the cells.
It is important to check the charge levels of your battery every month or two. Recharge your battery on a slow trickle charge if it needs a top up.
Batteries should never be stored in very cold or freezing conditions as this can cause irreparable damage to cells and casing. Always store your battery in cool dry conditions away from the elements, especially in winter and over long periods of inactivity.
A battery should always be stored in a fully charged state. Doing this will also help prevent it from freezing if it does encounter cold conditions.
Do not store in hot environments as this increases the rate at which they self discharge. They should never be exposed to direct heat from heaters and radiators etc.
All batteries should be stored in well ventilated areas. Wet, sealed and gel batteries contain sulphuric acid and lead. These substances are toxic and can give off poisonous fumes.
Charge your wet batteries in well ventilated areas. A charging battery gives off hydrogen gas which is flammable and explosive.
Now you know a bit more about batteries, take a look at my other guides on how to use them to power your equipment outdoors.
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For time and legal reasons I don’t answer reader’s questions on calculations or individual set up’s, but if you need to know anything about creating your own power set up or need advice on calculations, make sure you fully read through my battery guide and posts on inverters, battery calculations and battery connections.
There you should find all you need to know to help you get started.
…
Other Posts of Interest
Battery Calculations
Busking & Gigging Power – Outdoors
Inverters
Battery Connections
very good article /trying to set up different battery configuration for ups system
I hope this is a simple question and you really know your stuff so maybe it’s a quick one too…
I’m thinking of busking using a car battery starter:
(Ring Automotive RPP210 12V 40ah Power Pack Complete with 300W Inverter)
It’s about 120 quid and has an inverter built in
I would like to use my boss RC-50 looper pedal as well as a small Roland CM-30 Cube
Do you think this is viable combination and would it last a few hours?
Thanks a bunch in advance – I’m finding this a tricky thing to find out!
Terrific site by the way – really useful info.
Hi Pete,
As it happens, I bought one of those exact models a while ago. It’s a great backup power module with socket, torch and jump leads included for starting vehicles.
I can tell you it does it’s job as an emergency jump starter for my van and I’ve been meaning to try it out busking since I bought it a while ago, but haven’t managed to get out with it. I pondered that question when I bought it and came to the conclusion I needed the starter feature anyway, so just bought it.
Think the problem the thing has is it only has a 40ah capacity and is marked as being a lead acid battery. This means it probably won’t last long if it is continually discharged to a deep level which you are likely to when out busking for many hours a time.
On top of that, the inverter is not a true sine wave inverter, it is a modified inverter so the signal it produces is not a pure sine wave and although it will power most things without a problem, they are not too good for equipment with sensitive electronics like keyboards, fx racks etc and could effectively shorten their shelf life. It also takes 17 hours to charge and is very heavy.
However, although it goes against most of the rules I have spoken about in my guides, you never know – it might be o.k. and last you for a while.
Again it depends on the regime you put it through. If you just busk every now and then it’s probably o.k. If you put it through hell every day it might not stand up to it for long.
On a positive note, it is a neat little package and damn convenient.
If you want an excellent set up, read my guides and build one that matches your specific needs. If you’re not to bothered about performance and longevity (and need a jump starter kit) give it a try.
I might give mine a try this week and see how it goes.
Hope that helps.
K
Yes that does help Kier. Thanks!
I don’t think I will be busking often at all – we have a band playing venues but its early days and I’m looking at ways of getting experience and building confidence in front of an audience.
I think I might try the jump starter although I didnt know they were lead acid – and if it doesn’t work out I can start the car with it.
Thanks for putting together a great site – I have found it really informative and helpful.
No problem Peter and thanks for your comments.
As I said, although the rules suggest otherwise, I’ve met buskers who regularly busk using lead acid batteries and have said they work fine. It’s got a power meter on it so keep it charged after use and don’t drain it to death and you’ll probably find it will do the job.
The convenience of it is the main thing and mine has saved my arse a few times. It is pretty heavy though so you’ll need a travel case on wheels to lug it across any real distance.
Let us know how you get on with it.
Cheers
Great post! Thanks for taking the time to explain all this.
I wanted to get some confirmation on a set up Im working on. I have an amp that runs on battery power, I only need to power 1 device, an alesis dm 10 drum module which has 12v/1.5 listing under the power supply port on the back of the unit.
So Im saying It needs 18 watts + 25% extra demands=22.5 X 1.1 = 24.75 so that is the continuos power I need, roughly. If I want to run the module for 3 hours than if I divide 24.75 by 12(v)= aprox. 2.06(amps) x 3(hours)= 6.18, so 6.18 ah to power the unit. So If I over do it and get a battery, say 12v with 12ah than I should have more than enough battery power, but I really dont need a big inverter and probably the smallest TRUE sine wave inverter I see is like Wagan EL2200 Elite 180 Watt Pure Sine Wave Inverter, which still seems like overkill but I see your point of using True as opposed to a modified inverter.
Does this set up seem right? 180 inverter w/ 12v, 12ah to power my module for 3 hours? or is there a simpler cheaper way of doing this.
Cheers
Hi Nate, I don’t do calcultations or varify answers for viewers as it can lead to legal issues or comebacks. All I can say is read my guides fully, and remember to take into account other variables such as depth of discharge.
You don’t want to completely discharge your set up every time you use it otherwise you’ll knacker your battery very quickly. You’ll need a marine battery that can give you the power you need and still be half full at the end of the day so it can be recharged many times over without damaging it, limiting it’s lifespan and efficiency. Continually discharging a battery beyond it’s capabilities is not wise and this is just one of a few variables that need to be accounted for in your calculations. Read my battery guide and posts on inverters and battery calculations and you’ll find all the information you need there.
Thanks
Hi,
Thanks for the great guide. I notice nobody has mentioned Lithium Polymer (LiPo) batteries and was wondering if there is a particular reason not to use them in busking applications?
I have used them for RC models and know of the charging/cell-balance issues but have recently converted my little Vox DA-5 to accept two 1500mAh LiPo battaries along with the original C-cell tray, exchangable with Deans connections all round.
(Overkill perhaps, but at least you can always run into a shop and buy C-cells if it all goes pear-shaped.. not many high street shops selling LiPos just now!)
It seems to be working a lot better than the C-cells, which ran out VERY quickly and I monitor the LiPo discharge carefully, but am shortly going to fit a voltage cut off/warning (a la speed controller) device to allow me to know when the LiPo is reaching danger point and recharge on that basis… basically, the same way you do when flying RC aircraft etc.
Sorry, long post – not known for three words when several hundred long ones will do!
Any thoughts?
fruitbat
Hey Fruitbat, thanks for the input. I’m not familiar with them but LiPo’s might be a good candidate if used correctly. They seem to be favoured by the RC industry due to their high power output and light weight, but it seems there are concerns regarding the dangers of charging them incorrectly.
If you think they’ll provide a good alternative power source for powering amps and giging equipment then perhaps my readers should look into it.
Here’s a quick guide for anyone who’s interested.
Thanks a lot
Hi Kier and thanks very much for the reply.
I didn’t want to splurge on too much in my post but I perhaps should have mentioned the slightly more careful approach needed.
It is true that there have been incidents but LiPo technology, as all others are, is marching on relentlessly with the growing popularity and advantages of LiPo and combined charger/balancers are now the norm (mine are seperates) but I, for one, would never leave a LiPo charging and go for a drive in the country, as it were!
(I did have one ‘inflate’ itself very alarmingly on the bench beside me when I was working on something else!)
The quick guide you linked is great… if a little scary in places! And I haven’t tested mine in my amp long-term yet but over the next few gigs/weeks I will post a progress report to let people know if the advantages outweigh the extra care needed.
So far, Just one 1500mAh LiPo is way out-performing the dry cells. (I intalled two, plus the drycell tray is still in there).
I have pictures of my modification if anyone is interested, I’d be happy to share them.
Thanks,
fruitbat
I am really enjoying these articles, and information! Thanks again for taking the time to post all this.
I had a question in regards to an earlier discussion about car jump staring/ power pack units, eg. Diehard Portable Power 750 with 12 volt outlet and light. They are so convenient, as you say, with the battery, together with an inverter and a way to recharge the battery.
I know that the inverter is a modified one and definitely I don’t want to risk ruining the sensitive electronic gear Im using, mostly a drum machine. However Im wondering if I get an additional true sine wave inverter, and replace that to the modified one inside the unit and hook that up to the battery itself in the power pack would that possibly work, or would I still be in danger of ruining my gear?
The advantage to all this is the convenience of having a 12 volt battery and charger in one, at a low price. I don’t need a lot of power for what i figured out, probably under 40 watts of continuos power to run my gear, and for 2 hours.
I see the pros for getting the an actual marine battery and charger but I think this could save some money, and be a little more compact and portable for my set up.
Also, I also was wondering if you ever did try out your jump starter with busking as you hinted in a response above that you might try.
Thanks again.
Hi Nate, sorry for the late reply. I’ve been overwhelmed by my two businesses lately and just cannot get any time away from them at the moment, even to reply to comments. I still haven’t got round to testing my power pack out as I just haven’t had the time to go out busking.
Messing with the internal workings of a combined power pack may get you where you want if you research the job properly, but to be honest, it would probably be just too messy, time consuming and not worth the effort. The lead acid battery is not the best for extended power anyway. If you are going to put the effort in, design something yourself you can be proud that will do everything you need for probably the same price. That’s what I’d do anyway.
Cheers
Hi,
I came upon this very informative site and wondered whether you might have any pointers for a total novice? I’m having a small party in a field and would like to power an ipod/lap top & some speakers. I need to sort out my power source asap – Any suggestions on what I need to buy & where to get it would be very gratefully received? Thanks.
Hi Mat. A small party in a field can mean a whole lot of different things depending on what you call a ‘small party’. 8 people, 50 people, 4 hrs, 12 hrs, metal, drum n bass, accoustic etc. and it all depends on your budget and timeline. If you’ve only got a few hours to sort it, hire a generator for the night or if you have more time, check the net for a good all in one power supply, find a shop that sells it, test it out for your needs and take it back the next day.
If you want to learn more about your requirements, check out my posts on battery guide, inverters, battery calculations and busking power. Hopefully they should help you make the right decisions.
Cheers
Hi Kier. I want to power my portable PA, it’s a Fender Passport 250, (AC Power:
100 volts to 240 volts, 50-60 Hz.) I’ll be out on the Santa Monica Promenade (in the sun) for probably 3 hours max. What would you recommend?
I purchased a Roland Mobile Cube and 100 AA Duracell Proplus from Amazon at a great price, the reason being Roland say the Mobile Cube cannot be run from rechargeables.
I also use four effects pedals which cost a lot in PP3 (9volt) batteries. My question is can (Boss RC-2 loop station, DD6 digital delay, Behringer RV600 reverb and Behringer BOD bass overdrive) be used with PP3 type Nimh rechargeables?
Thanks for your excellent work.
Clarissa
I hope this helps but after my earlier posts on this page, I did buy the Ring Automotive RPP210 12V 40ah Power Pack Complete with 300W Inverter.
I have tried it out running my Roland cm30 cube (Main Powered), a Boss RC-50 and a Zoom guitar effects pedal.
There appears to be plenty of power and I ran it for about an hour from 100% full bringing it down to 75% over the period so it appears to be up to the job for at least a couple of hours.
There are two downsides -
1. As Kier said, it’s bloody heavy so if you’re walking a distance to your performance spot – get some wheels for it.
2. The quality of the power is quite poor, so it makes the cube buzz. It’s not overly loud and doesn’t increase with volume so the actual playing of the music does cancel it out, but this is something to consider if you perform light acoustic styles.
Hello and thanks for the great post. I live in London and I would like to try busking.
I have this amp
http://www.schertlerusa.com/david.htm
Can you please tell me what kind of equipment will be best to power my amp and where can I find it.
Thank you very much!
Dear Sir,
At first take my salam. I want to know equation or formula of battery calculations. Kindly help me.
Examle for:
1.How to will be out battery Volts?
2.How to will be out battery AH?
3.How to will be out battery Charfging current?
4.How to will be out battery backup time?
Hi Kier,
Please Help! I’ve just bought a Roland Cube Street and I’m looking to hit the streets as soon as possible but when it comes to batteries and chargers (even after reading your very informative post) I’m still completely stuck as to what I should go for… So far I’ve decided that NiMH are the way forward but I’ve no idea what sort of charger to get… Any suggestions?
Hi, I believe the Street Cube uses 6 x AA batteries, so you can use any bog standard intelligent charger .i.e. one that switches itself off or moves into trickle mode when charged.
You should be able to buy one for around £10 to £20 in your usual high street shops like Currys, Wilkinsons, Halfords, B n Q etc. Most chargers have selectors so you can choose which type of battery you choose to charge using it.
Hi I want to do an outside gig of about 2hrs, we will be running a 4 channel pa, what type of battery will I need for running a 300 watt inverter?
cheers
Mike
Mike. A small silent generator, bought or hired is really your only choice. Lead acid battery packs for car starting are designed to give very high amperage for very short periods and then be recharged fully, such as in turning over an engine for up to 20 seconds. That would use 20% of the battery capacity and the battery would need bringing back up to charge very soon. Using a lead acid battery for slower, deeper drain will not be satisfactory because the battery will very quickly degrade as a result of being too deeply discharged.
Thanks for comments Clasissa, i was hoping that maybe a battery as used in caravan`s might do, as it`s only a small pa about 75watt per channel, basically its just like an amplifier.
cheers
Mike
Thank you for a very informative site. One thing confuses me is about battery power. While 60+ and 70+ keyboards sometimes take AA batteries as a built in option, full size 88 keyboards never seem to have this option and can only be used via a mains power pack. OK – I realise that I can use a generator or an inverter but this can be a little inconvenient. Roland do have some battery powered amps and short keyboards but do not give a battery option for my 88 key FP-4F. The output from the 230v power pack is 12volt 4amp so is it not possible for me to link up a bunch of AA or larger pocket size batteries (as done in the shorter keyboards) to achieve the correct power rating or would this method not be clean enough for the full size keyboard, and if so, is there not a way to make pocket size battery power clean enough to use? It would be so much easier to use regular batteries instead of carrying around a generator or an inverter setup.
Hi managed to find a solution for my needs,running a small pa 400watt power, via 40ah car battery and a 500watt inverter, used for small gig 3hrs battery still got 90% power left.
ran the PA with 2 mics 2 guitars 2x fx units and mp3 player.
Need help please
I’ve got 6 – 11watts lights 230volts. that I want to run off a 12volt battery 110ah how long will it last for ??
Hi,
I’m planning on doing some regular busking in the city (keys and vox) & I’m wondering how I would power my Nord keyboard. I’m considering getting the Roland Cube as it is self powered, but that still doesn’t solve my power problem to the keyboard.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for the helpful info.
Cheers
Hi Kier, Great Website ! If you could help me with this battery problem it would be great ! I busk with a Roland AC33 amp that takes 8 aa batteries(the power supply says 13V, 4a), i use one 12V, 7a lead acid battery to try to save money but the extra weight of the battery defeats the purpose of the light amplifier. Before i buy rechargeable aa batteries i want to be sure they will work with the lower voltage of 1.2 volts each instead of 1.5 volts of regular disposable batteries. The amplifier has a battery pack for 8 batteries, will 9.6 volts work ? Are there rechargeable aa batteries that have 1.5 volts ? if so is it possible to recharge them in series in the battery pack with my 12v lead acid battery charger ? Electronics is the hardest part of music for me to understand, i’ve been stuck on this problem for a long time, any advice would be very appreciated thanks, -Bob
Hi Bob, I don’t give advice on calculations and testing setups for legal reasons, but I seriously would not attempt to charge AA rechargables with your 12v lead acid battery charger or you could do yourself some serious damage.
AA batteries are all 1.2 volts as standard but depending on the price you pay for them, have different mAh ratings, i.e. 1700mAh, 2000mAh, 2500mAh etc. basically meaning they give out more power for longer the higher the rating. If your amp takes 8 x AA batteries, I would just relax about the whole power thing and go out and buy 8 decent NiMh rechargables probably (£8 for 4) and a good domestic high speed universal battery charger (not a car cattery charger). Roland have already done the hard work for you so don’t worry about it, buy the batteries and enjoy your amp.
Cheers.
Hi Michael, I have about 6 posts on this site which should give you an idea of how to get started. Checkout my busking category. http://www.streetmusician.co.uk/buskingstuff/
Thanks
Thanks for your reply Kier, i will get some good aa rechargeables for the Roland amp, do you know if it’s possible to recharge the 8 batteries while they are in the battery pack and if so which charger should i get ? or do i need to take them all out and put them in the charger (i have a charger for 4 batteries at a time) then back into the pack then screw the pack back into the back of the amp ? i’m trying to streamline my busking rig, your knowledge of electronics and busking rigs is very helpful thanks. -Bob
One more question: The 13V, 4a DC power supply for my Roland AC33 amp doesn’t work anymore (don’t know why but i probably fried it trying to change the plug), would it be safe to use a 12V, 7a power supply i have lying around ? (I will not blame you for any damage i may do to my equipment based on your advice) thanks -Bob
Sorry i mean AC power not DC
I use a Roland Mobile Cube for street busking. The instructions state NOT to use recheargeable AA batteries. This is due to the lower voltage, the likelyhood of Nimh cells suddenly expiring, and the sensitive nature of digital circuits used in Roland modeling amplifier cicuits.
I purchased a box of 100 AA Duracell from the Internet at a very reasonable price, about 23pence each. They are high power Duracell Ultra type, but have a different printed image on the cells as they are produced for the industry instead of for resale in supermarkets. They are named ‘Duracell Procell’ and the amperage and voltage is equivalent to Duracell Ultra types at a fifth of the cost.
The Roland Mobile Cube takes six AA cells and these last about 9 hours of usage. In 9 hours of busking I can easily absorb the cost of batteries and the convenience of Alkaline cells which run down in a slow slope, rather than suddenly expiring, is suited to my busking.
I also purchased Duracell Procell 9v PP3 types for my guitar effects boxes and they work great.
Hi Bob, Clarissa has some great advice above if your instructions say the same and you can get get these cheap good quality disposables, although I’m not sure I’m comfortable with the idea of having to throw away hundreds of batteries a year.
I haven’t used an AC33 but considering the huge expense most people would have to pay for disposable batteries, I would have assumed that any electronics manufacturer worth their salt, especially one who makes busking amps would take rechargebales into consideration and automatically compensate for that when switching to their battery circuit. I’ve never in my life used anything else but rechargeables and I would think most musicians do also. There are a few reviews online for the AC33 with users stating they use rechargeables and a quick look at the specs suggest they would be fine – (AC Adaptor (included, DC 13 V), Dry battery LR6 (AA) type (alkaline) x 8, or Rechargeable Ni-MH battery (AA, HR6) type x 8 ) so I think it would be fine, but it may be best to check your instructions or give Roland support a call if you’re not sure.
Regarding your power supply, for a piece of equipment as expensive as your amp, I wouldn’t start messing around with power supplies as it’s just not worth it to save a few quid. Even if your spare pack is rated higher than the original, in theory the supply needs to be able to draw varying currents at a particular steady voltage for the equipment to run in it’s ideal environment. Power supplies vary greatly in their stability, accuracy and efficiency and your original Roland pack may be of a much higher quality than your spare. A lower voltage may work but probably not very well and could cause problems or reduce your equipments life span, it also has to have the same polarity as the original supply otherwise you will fry your equipment. You may get away with it but I would just contact Roland and get a new one for piece of mind, and so your equipment is complete if you ever need to sell it.
Hope that helps a little. Cheers
Hi Clarissa, thanks for your input. Amazing how you can get batteries like that at such a good price. Hopefully that will be of great help to some of our readers. Thanks
Just to say ‘thank you’ to all our comment posters. Sorry I’ve not been around to reply to you all as I’m overwhelmed with other projects at the moment but thanks to everyone who’s chipped in over the past few months on all my posts. All your comments and advice are very much appreciated.
Cheers
K
Thanks for the reply Clarissa Kier, I tried busking with the AC33 with 8 alcaline aa batteries that Roland suggests but the sound was weaker and softer than when i use the 12v, 7a lead acid battery ! interesting ! i don’t know the ah of the alcaline batteries but the power supply for the amp is 12v, 4a so i conclude that the extra ah of the lead acid battery gives a better sound ! hmmm …
where is my answer??
Hi and thank you for the information.
I have never done this but rather played paying venues and auditoriums for about 20 years. Having recenty moved, I am playing on “hitting the street” just for the interim. I have two small Yamaha self powered monitor speakers and or a Yamaha EMX312. I need to plug in an acoustic guitar and two mics. Having never done this, how do you plug in or create an outlet so to speak off of a battery or do I need a specific type of amplifier. I am looking for some assistance in seeing the schematic I guess, I am solo acoustic.
I could just go seek paying “club” gigs but would like to give this a try unless the investment compared to the return of busking in this economy points to the club shows, but I am not truly a cover type of musician.
Thanks for your help.
thanks very much for this information its very usefull
Iwant ask you Ihave battery have capacity 100AH and when I charg it from hybrid system it drown 025Amp its normally operated or not please help me what time required to fully charge
Hi I would like to purcahse an incubator wich runs on AC power 220V single phase and the power rating is 300w. I would like to use a solar panel to power this marchine and as you know i need 24hr power supply for maximum hatching. My worry is how to provide power to this machine all day all night. What kind of power set can i use? (Solar panel, inverter, batery(s)) that can give me constant power supply. You can also look at this marhine on this web site. http://www.surehatch.co.za/Surehatch-Model-360-Semi-Commercial-egg-incubator.htm
I will be very grateful for your help